The main door is the one door in a home that everything passes through: the family, guests, groceries, a new sofa, a double-door refrigerator, a washing machine, and on hard days a wheelchair or a stretcher. It is also the door that carries the most meaning — the face of the house in Vastu, the place for the nameplate and the toran, the first thing a visitor touches. Yet its size is often decided by habit. Builders repeat whatever they used in the last project; contractors call for a 3 by 7 feet door without asking what will need to come through it.
Two mistakes come up again and again. In flats, the main door is too narrow — 900 mm or less — so furniture enters tilted, scrapes the frame and sometimes cannot enter at all. In bungalows, the opposite happens: a grand 1500 mm single shutter or an oversized pivot door is ordered without checking the frame, hinges or floor pivot, and within a year it sags, drags or refuses to latch. Both mistakes come from confusing three different widths — the wall opening, the shutter and the clear passage — and from treating the main door as a decorative choice rather than a piece of engineering.
This article sets out the sizes that work, for flats and for bungalows, in millimetres and feet. It explains how an opening, a frame and a shutter add up, what fits through a given clear width, how double and pivot doors are proportioned, where the hardware goes, which standards apply and what each type of door costs. The figures are consistent with this site's guide to standard door and window sizes, and go deeper on the main door alone.
Quick reference: main door sizes
The table gives the sizes Aaditya Interior and most Indian designers use. Shutter sizes are the leaf itself; opening sizes are the approximate rough hole in the masonry for a wooden or WPC frame. Feet are rounded trade equivalents.
| Home type | Recommended shutter (W × H) | In feet (approx.) | Wall opening for frame (approx.) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Compact flat (1–2BHK) | 1000 × 2100 mm | 3 ft 3 in × 7 ft | 1100–1120 × 2160–2180 mm | Do not go below 1000 mm if it can be avoided |
| Typical flat (2–3BHK) | 1000–1050 × 2100–2250 mm | 3 ft 3 in–3 ft 5 in × 7–7 ft 4 in | 1100–1170 × 2160–2330 mm | 1050 mm makes moving furniture much easier |
| Premium flat or penthouse | 1050–1200 × 2400 mm | 3 ft 5 in–4 ft × 8 ft | 1150–1320 × 2460–2480 mm | Taller door reads more generous; check fire-door rules |
| Row house | 1050–1200 × 2100–2400 mm | 3 ft 5 in–4 ft × 7–8 ft | 1150–1320 × 2160–2480 mm | Single shutter or 1200 with fixed side panel |
| Bungalow — single | 1050–1200 × 2400–2700 mm | 3 ft 5 in–4 ft × 8–9 ft | 1150–1320 × 2460–2780 mm | Above about 1050 mm, check hinges and frame carefully |
| Bungalow — double door | 1500–1800 × 2400–2700 mm (two leaves of 750–900) | 5–6 ft × 8–9 ft | 1600–1920 × 2460–2780 mm | Traditional and practical for big entrances |
| Villa — pivot door | 1200–1800 × 2700–3000 mm | 4–6 ft × 9–10 ft | Per pivot maker's drawing | Engineered pivot hardware rated for the door's weight |
How main doors got their size: a short history
Traditional Indian entrances were sized by function and status rather than by standard. Haveli and pol-house doors in Gujarat and Rajasthan were often heavy double doors of timber, studded with iron or brass, set in carved frames and raised above the street on a threshold — the umbaro in Gujarati homes — that kept out water and dust and marked the boundary between the street and the home. Large gates in forts and palaces had a small wicket door cut into one leaf so that people could pass without opening the whole gate; the same idea survives in some bungalow gates today. Lintels were sometimes kept low so that visitors bowed slightly as they entered.
Colonial bungalows brought taller doors, often 2400–3000 mm with glazed fanlights above, because tall openings helped ventilation in hot weather. As India moved to metric construction and public housing after independence, the 2100 mm door height and widths in steps of 100–150 mm became the norm, and Indian Standards for timber frames and flush shutters gave factories common sizes to work to. The result is the familiar flat entrance of today: a 1000 mm flush shutter in a timber frame, 2100 mm high. Premium projects are now moving back to taller entrances of 2400 mm or more, and to pivot doors that recall the grand double doors of the past.
Opening, shutter and clear width: getting the three numbers right
Every door has three widths, and most errors come from mixing them up. The structural opening is the hole left in the wall. The frame (chaukhat) sits inside it, typically a timber, WPC or steel section around 100–125 mm wide and 60–75 mm thick, rebated so the shutter can close against a stop. The shutter is the leaf. And the clear width is what is actually left for a person or a piece of furniture to pass through when the door is open at 90 degrees — the shutter width minus the rebate on each side and the thickness of the open leaf itself.
As a working rule, the wall opening needs to be about 100–150 mm wider and 60–80 mm taller than the shutter to take the frame legs, the head and fixing tolerance. The clear width is roughly 70–90 mm less than the shutter width for a hinged door. So a 1000 mm shutter gives about 910–930 mm clear, a 1050 mm shutter about 960–980 mm, and a 900 mm shutter only about 810–830 mm. Those 100 or 150 mm of extra shutter matter more at the main door than anywhere else in the house.
| Shutter width | Approx. clear width at 90° | What passes comfortably | Verdict for a main door |
|---|---|---|---|
| 900 mm (3 ft) | 810–830 mm | People, small furniture; large fridge or sofa must be tilted | Too narrow — meets room-door minimums only |
| 1000 mm (3 ft 3 in) | 910–930 mm | Most single-door fridges, wheelchairs, sofas carried on end | Minimum recommended for flats |
| 1050 mm (3 ft 5 in) | 960–980 mm | Double-door fridges up to about 900–910 mm wide, most 3-seater sofas on their side | Best all-round size for flats |
| 1200 mm single (4 ft) | 1110–1130 mm | Almost anything domestic, including stretchers and wide appliances | Heavy; needs strong frame, hinges and wall |
| 1200 mm as 900 + 300 side panel | 810–830 mm daily, ≈ 1110 with panel open | Daily use like a 900 door; full width when moving furniture | Good compromise in flats and row houses |
| 1500–1800 mm double door | ≈ 650–800 mm per leaf; full width with both open | Everything; grand arrival | Best for bungalows with a proper foyer |
Sizes for flats
In apartments the main door usually opens off a common corridor or a lift lobby, and its position and opening are set by the builder. When an interior project starts, the opening already exists, so the real choices are the shutter, its finish and hardware, and sometimes the height. Where the builder has provided a 900 mm opening, it is worth asking — at the booking or early construction stage — for a 1000 or 1050 mm shutter. Once the flat is handed over, widening a main door means cutting masonry, a new frame and repairs to the corridor finish, and in many towers it also needs the society's approval because the corridor face is common property.
Height is the second lever. A 2100 mm main door is standard, but in a flat with about 2750–2900 mm of clear height, a 2400 mm door makes the entrance feel noticeably more generous from both sides. It needs a taller frame, a stiffer shutter that will not warp, and usually a fourth hinge. In high-rise towers, flat entrance doors are often specified by the developer as fire-check doors tested to IS 3614 as part of the building's fire safety approvals; replacing or altering such a door without matching its fire rating can compromise those approvals, so the society and the developer should be consulted first.
The door should normally open inward, into the flat, so that the open leaf never blocks the common corridor, which is an escape route. Inside, it should swing against a wall, with at least 1200 × 1200 mm of clear standing space beyond the swing — the figure this site's foyer guide uses — and a door stop that protects the wall finish. A shoe cabinet goes on the latch side, never behind the open leaf.
Sizes for row houses and bungalows
Independent houses give much more freedom, and more ways to get it wrong. The entrance is usually reached through a porch or verandah, so the door is less exposed to direct rain than a door on an open facade, but it may face the afternoon sun. Heights of 2400–2700 mm are common, and with a double-height foyer an entrance of 3000 mm is possible. The width depends on the type of door. A single hinged shutter becomes heavy and hard to keep true beyond about 1050–1200 mm, which is why Indian practice moves to a split shutter, a side panel or a double door for wider openings.
A double door of 1500–1800 mm, made of two leaves of 750–900 mm, is the traditional bungalow solution and remains one of the most practical: day-to-day the family uses one leaf, with the other bolted top and bottom, and both open for guests, ceremonies and moving furniture. The fixed leaf needs flush bolts into the frame head and a floor socket; the active leaf carries the lock. A door with a fixed or openable side panel — for example a 1000 mm leaf with a 300–400 mm side panel, glazed or solid — gives a wide-looking entrance without an unwieldy shutter.
Pivot doors
A pivot door turns on a pin at the top and a pivot in the floor, set in from the edge, rather than on hinges on the frame. That lets very large, heavy shutters — 1200–1800 mm wide and 2700–3000 mm high — swing smoothly, and gives the striking image of a door that seems to float. The trade-offs are real. Part of the leaf swings inward on the hinge side of the pivot, so furniture cannot sit there; the floor must be recessed and levelled for the pivot box; the gaps around the leaf are larger than on a hinged door, which affects dust, insects and sound; and the hardware must be chosen from the maker's tables for the actual door weight and width. A large veneered or solid-core pivot door can weigh well over a hundred kilograms, so the floor, the head fixing and the shutter construction must all be designed together.
Frame, shutter thickness and construction
A main door shutter is thicker and stiffer than a bedroom door. Flush shutters for internal doors are commonly 30–35 mm thick; main door shutters are usually 35–45 mm, and tall or pivot doors 45–60 mm or more, with a solid or engineered timber core so they stay flat. Timber frames for main doors are typically 100–125 mm wide and 60–75 mm thick, of seasoned hardwood or engineered timber; WPC frames resist termites and moisture and are increasingly common; pressed-steel frames are used with steel and fire-rated doors. The frame is fixed to the masonry with holdfasts or anchor fasteners — three or four per side for a tall, heavy door.
| Main door type | Typical construction | Shutter thickness | Indicative cost, complete door set (Oct 2026) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Flush door with laminate | Engineered solid core, laminate both faces, timber or WPC frame | 35–40 mm | ₹18,000–35,000 | Most economical; choose a textured, scratch-resistant laminate |
| Flush door with veneer, polished or PU | Solid core, natural veneer, PU or melamine polish | 35–40 mm | ₹30,000–65,000 | Warm look; needs repolishing, protect from rain |
| WPC door and frame | WPC shutter and frame, laminated or painted | 30–35 mm | ₹20,000–40,000 | Termite- and moisture-resistant; check screw holding |
| Solid teak or hardwood panelled door | Frame-and-panel construction, often carved | 40–50 mm | ₹80,000–2,50,000+ | Heavy and traditional; needs a strong frame and 4 hinges |
| Designer pivot door | Engineered core, veneer, PU, metal or stone facing | 45–60 mm | ₹1,50,000–5,00,000+ | Hardware rated to door weight; floor pivot recessed |
| Fire-check door (flats in towers) | Tested door set to IS 3614, with closer and seals | Per tested design | ₹30,000–80,000 | Replace only like for like; check society and fire approvals |
| Steel security door | Factory-made steel leaf and frame, multi-point lock | 50–70 mm | ₹35,000–1,00,000 | Strong and stable; finish options improving |
| MS safety grille door (outside) | Mild steel frame with jaali or bars, powder coated | Frame 40–50 mm | ₹15,000–60,000 | Second layer; check society rules |
The finishing figures in this site's door and window guide still apply: exterior-grade paint on the weather face costs about ₹17–26 per sq ft, and a premium designer finish ₹40–150 or more per sq ft of paintable area. A budget flush shutter with a well-chosen finish and good hardware often serves better than an expensive shutter with poor fittings.
Hardware: hinges, locks and heights
The hardware decides whether a main door still works well after ten years. Three hinges suit a standard 2100 mm flush door; a main door that is heavy, taller than 2100 mm or wider than 1000 mm should have four, of stainless steel, 100–125 mm long and around 3 mm thick, preferably with ball bearings. The lock and handle sit at about 1000–1050 mm from the finished floor, the height used across the house so that every door feels the same. A peephole or video door camera goes at about 1400–1500 mm, a door closer at the head where self-closing is wanted, and a door stop at floor or wall level to protect finishes.
| Item | Recommended | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Number of hinges | 3 for 2100 × ≤ 1000 flush doors; 4 for taller, wider or heavier doors | Prevents sagging and dragging |
| Hinge type and size | Stainless steel, 100–125 mm, about 3 mm leaf, ball-bearing | Carries weight smoothly for years |
| Lock / handle height | 1000–1050 mm from finished floor | Comfortable for most adults; consistent through the house |
| Peephole or camera | 1400–1500 mm | Eye level for most adults |
| Threshold height | Flush, or 12–15 mm with a bevel | Avoids trips; works for wheelchairs and trolleys |
| Smart lock | Match shutter thickness; mechanical key override; battery alert | Many locks fit only a range of thicknesses |
| Door stop | Floor or wall mounted at the open position | Protects the wall and handle |
| Weather seals | Perimeter seal and bottom seal or drop seal | Keeps out dust, insects and corridor noise |
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Most main-door problems are visible on the drawing if anyone looks. The checklist below collects the errors seen most often on Indian sites, along with the fix. The best moment to apply it is when the civil drawings are being finalised — before the masonry opening is built — because almost every fix afterwards involves breaking something.
| Mistake | What happens | How to avoid it |
|---|---|---|
| 900 mm main door in a flat | Fridges and sofas enter tilted or not at all | Ask for 1000–1050 mm before masonry is built |
| Opening built to the shutter size | Frame has nowhere to sit; opening cut later | Build opening ≈ shutter + 100–150 mm, to the frame maker's size |
| Single shutter of 1500 mm on three hinges | Sags and drags within months | Use a double door or side panel; 4 hinges above 1050 mm |
| Door opening outward into a common corridor | Blocks the escape route; disputes with neighbours | Open inward against a wall |
| Shoe cabinet behind the open leaf | Door cannot open fully; handle hits the unit | Place storage on the latch side |
| Raised threshold of 50–75 mm | Trips, difficult for elders, trolleys and wheelchairs | Flush or 12–15 mm bevelled threshold |
| Smart lock bought before the shutter | Lock does not fit the shutter thickness | Choose the lock and shutter together |
| Replacing a fire-check door with a decorative one | May breach the building's fire approvals | Replace like for like; consult the society |
Where main doors are heading
Three trends are shaping the main door. First, height: premium flats and most new bungalows are moving from 2100 mm to 2400 mm or full-height entrances, because a taller door makes both the corridor and the foyer feel more generous. Second, security and technology: smart locks with fingerprint, PIN and app access, video door phones and multi-point locking are becoming standard at mid-range budgets, and doors are being specified with the right thickness and core to receive them. Third, performance: better seals for dust and sound, fire-check and acoustic doors in towers, and engineered cores that resist warping in humid cities such as Surat and Mumbai. Traditional forms are returning too — carved and brass-studded double doors, now built on stable engineered cores with modern hardware.
Rules for sizing a main door
- Flats: a shutter of 1000 mm minimum, 1050 mm preferred, 2100–2400 mm high.
- Bungalows: 1050–1200 mm single, or a 1500–1800 mm double door, 2400–2700 mm high.
- Above about 1050 mm wide, use four hinges, a side panel, a double door or a pivot door rather than one heavy leaf.
- Build the wall opening about 100–150 mm wider and 60–80 mm taller than the shutter, to the frame maker's size.
- Expect a clear passage about 70–90 mm narrower than the shutter; check the largest appliance and sofa against it.
- Open the door inward, against a wall, with 1200 × 1200 mm of standing space and storage on the latch side.
- Keep the threshold flush or 12–15 mm with a bevel.
- Set the lock at 1000–1050 mm and the peephole or camera at 1400–1500 mm.
- In towers, treat the main door as part of the fire safety system and replace it only like for like.
Frequently asked questions
What is the standard main door size in feet?
The common standard is 3 ft 3 in × 7 ft (1000 × 2100 mm) for flats, with 3 ft 5 in (1050 mm) increasingly preferred. Bungalows use 3 ft 5 in to 4 ft single doors or 5–6 ft double doors, typically 8–9 ft high.
Is a 3 feet main door enough?
A 3 ft (900 mm) shutter gives only about 810–830 mm of clear width, which meets minimums for room doors but makes moving a double-door refrigerator, a large sofa or a wheelchair difficult. For a main door, 1000 mm is the practical minimum and 1050 mm is better.
What size should a double main door be?
A double main door is usually 1500–1800 mm wide in total, made of two leaves of 750–900 mm, and 2400–2700 mm high in a bungalow. One leaf is used daily and the other is bolted, opening only when the full width is needed.
How big should the wall opening be for a main door?
For a timber or WPC frame, about 100–150 mm wider and 60–80 mm taller than the shutter. A 1000 × 2100 mm shutter needs roughly a 1100–1120 × 2160–2180 mm opening, but the frame maker's drawing should always set the final size.
Which is the best height for a main door?
2100 mm (7 ft) is the standard and works in any flat. Where the clear ceiling height is about 2750 mm or more, a 2400 mm (8 ft) door makes the entrance feel more generous; bungalows with taller entrances use 2400–2700 mm, and pivot doors up to 3000 mm.
Should the main door open inside or outside?
In homes in India the main door normally opens inward. In a flat this keeps the common corridor — an escape route — clear, and in any house it lets the door swing against an inside wall where it is protected from weather.
Sources & standards
- Bureau of Indian Standards — National Building Code of India 2016, Part 3 (Development Control Rules) and Part 4 (Fire and Life Safety): exits and corridors
- Bureau of Indian Standards — IS 4021: Timber door, window and ventilator frames; IS 2202 (Part 1): Wooden flush door shutters (solid core type); IS 1003 (Part 1): Timber panelled and glazed shutters
- Bureau of Indian Standards — IS 3614: Fire-check doors — specification
- Delhi Unified Building Bye-Laws 2016 — door sizes for habitable rooms
- Neufert, Architects' Data — door widths, clearances and furniture dimensions
- Time-Saver Standards for Building Types — entrance and door dimensions
- Price ranges: indicative October 2026 estimates, consistent with this site's door, window and foyer guides — confirm locally before budgeting




