Ten years ago a track light in an Indian home was a rare sight — something seen in a jewellery showroom, an art gallery or a clothing store, rarely above a sofa. Today the slim black line of a magnetic track running across a living-room ceiling is one of the most requested details in apartment interiors, from Surat and Ahmedabad to Pune and Bengaluru. Clients see it on social media, in hotel lobbies and in builders' sample flats, and ask for it by name. The appeal is easy to understand: a single neat line replaces a scatter of recessed downlights, and the lights on it can be moved, re-aimed, added or swapped years later without cutting a new hole in the ceiling.
The trouble is that track and magnetic systems are specified as casually as a downlight, and they are far less forgiving. A rail placed too close to the wall throws hot scallops of light down the plaster and leaves the artwork in shadow. A rail placed in the middle of the room blinds whoever sits on the sofa. A magnetic system bought online arrives with a driver too small for the modules, or with a profile that needs a 60 mm ceiling cavity when the carpenter has left 40 mm. Mixing a 230 V track head into a 48 V magnetic rail is impossible; mixing two brands of magnetic rail is usually impossible too. These are expensive mistakes because the rail is built into the false ceiling, and the ceiling is closed early in the project.
This guide explains the difference between the two systems, where each one came from, how the parts fit together, and — most usefully — the dimensions that make a track work: distance from the wall, aiming angle, beam angle, module spacing, ceiling cavity, driver size and cable route. It also gives indicative October 2026 prices so the line can be put into a budget honestly, and closes with the checks Aaditya Interior applies before approving a track layout.
From gallery rails to magnetic tracks: a short history
Track lighting was born in shops and galleries, where displays change every few weeks and fixed downlights are always in the wrong place. From the 1960s and 1970s, manufacturers in Europe and the United States sold mains-voltage rails into which adjustable spotlights could be clipped anywhere along their length. The heads carried incandescent and later halogen lamps, they ran hot, and they were large — a can-shaped spotlight on a chunky aluminium rail — but the idea was revolutionary: the light could follow the merchandise or the painting instead of the other way round.
The 1980s and 1990s brought low-voltage halogen: 12 V lamps with small reflectors that gave a crisp, sparkling beam ideal for jewellery and art. Tensioned cable systems and slim 12 V rails appeared, but they needed heavy transformers and wasted much of their energy as heat. In India, the hot halogen spotlight became a fixture of showrooms through the 1990s and 2000s, while homes stayed with tube lights, CFLs and, later, recessed downlights.
LEDs changed both the size and the economics. An LED chip produces light from a few square millimetres, needs only a small heat sink at low wattages, and runs comfortably from low-voltage DC. That made it possible to shrink the spotlight to a tube 30–55 mm across and the rail to a slot about 20–35 mm wide. Through the late 2010s and early 2020s, manufacturers combined these small LED modules with a magnetic mounting — a strong magnet in the module holds it against a steel strip inside the rail, while spring contacts pick up power from two copper conductors. The magnetic track, almost always running at 48 V DC, moved from hotel and retail projects into homes within a few years. Indian manufacturers and importers now offer it at many price points, which is both an opportunity and a risk: the systems look identical in photographs but differ greatly in light quality and build.
Track light versus magnetic light: how the two systems work
Both systems share one principle — a continuous powered rail onto which light fittings can be attached anywhere — but they are electrically different, and that difference decides almost everything else. A conventional track light runs at mains voltage, 230 V AC in India. The rail is an aluminium extrusion carrying copper conductors; each spotlight has an adapter that twists into the rail, and the LED driver sits inside the head or in a small box on the adapter. Because every head carries its own driver, the heads are bulkier, and because the rail is at mains voltage, it must be installed and earthed like any other fixed wiring.
A magnetic track runs at safety extra-low voltage, almost always 48 V DC (some smaller systems use 24 V). The mains supply goes into one central driver hidden in the ceiling cavity or a nearby service void, and the driver feeds the rail. The modules carry no driver of their own, which is why a magnetic spot can be as small as a lipstick and a linear module as thin as a pencil. They are held by magnets and can be slid along the rail, unclipped and repositioned by hand — the low voltage makes this safe in normal use. The cost of that flexibility is a dependency: every module on the rail draws from the same driver, so the driver must be sized for the full load, and the modules must come from the same system family as the rail.
| Point of comparison | 230 V track light | 48 V magnetic track |
|---|---|---|
| Supply on the rail | Mains 230 V AC | Extra-low voltage 48 V DC (sometimes 24 V) |
| Where the driver sits | Inside each head or on its adapter | One central driver in the ceiling cavity or service void |
| Typical rail width | About 33–36 mm, surface mounted | About 20–35 mm; surface, recessed or trimless |
| Head size | Larger — 55–90 mm diameter heads common | Small — spots about 30–55 mm, linear modules 20–30 mm wide |
| Fittings available | Spots, floods, wall washers, pendants | Spots, foldable spots, linear diffused, grille, wall washers, pendants |
| Repositioning | Twist-lock adapter; switch off before moving | Magnetic; slide or reposition by hand |
| Mixing brands | Possible within the same rail standard | Rarely — rails and modules are usually brand-specific |
| Best suited to | Shops, galleries, high ceilings, high output | Homes, hotels, offices, boutiques, low and medium ceilings |
In practice, homes with ceilings between about 2600 and 3000 mm and a desire for a minimal look are best served by magnetic systems. Commercial spaces with higher ceilings, heavy merchandise lighting, or frequent changes by staff — clothing stores, supermarkets, showrooms, exhibition halls — still often choose 230 V track because the heads can be more powerful and the rails follow established multi-circuit formats that accept heads from several manufacturers. A jewellery showroom in Surat might use both: magnetic modules in the low ceiling over the counters and 230 V track in the high-ceiling display zone.
Single-circuit and three-circuit mains track
Mains track comes in two common forms. A single-circuit rail carries one live, one neutral and earth, so every head on it switches together. A three-circuit rail carries three separate live conductors with a shared neutral and earth; each head's adapter can be set to pick up one of the three circuits, which lets a shop switch window display, general display and night security lighting from one rail. For homes, single-circuit is usually enough; in commercial spaces, the three-circuit rail is worth its slightly higher price because it allows zoning without a second rail.
Inside a magnetic profile
A magnetic profile is an aluminium channel with a steel strip at the back and two insulated copper bus bars along the sides. The module's magnets hold it to the steel strip, and its spring-loaded contacts touch the bus bars. A small connector at one end — the live end or feed — joins the driver's output cable to the bus bars. Straight, L, T and X connectors join lengths of profile into lines, corners and grids, and continuity of the bus bars through each connector is what keeps the whole run powered. Poorly made connectors are the single most common cause of flickering or dead sections in budget systems.
Profiles and installation types: surface, suspended, recessed and trimless
The way the rail meets the ceiling decides both the look and the site work, so it must be chosen at the false-ceiling drawing stage, not after. There are four main options. Surface-mounted profiles screw directly onto an existing ceiling or slab; they suit renovations, rented homes and exposed-concrete or industrial interiors. Suspended profiles hang on steel wires from the slab, which is useful in double-height spaces, shops with exposed services, or offices where the rail runs over a workstation cluster. Recessed profiles sit in a slot in the gypsum ceiling, with a visible flange that covers the edge of the cut. Trimless or plaster-in profiles are recessed too, but their flanges are taped and plastered over, so the ceiling surface runs right up to the slot with no visible frame — the cleanest result, and the most demanding to build.
The dimension that most often goes wrong is the cavity. A recessed magnetic profile is roughly 45–55 mm deep in common slim systems, and the feed connector and cable need space above it; some deeper profiles with built-in drivers need more. Designers therefore plan a false-ceiling drop of at least 60–80 mm at the rail, and more where the rail crosses beams, AC ducts or sprinkler pipes. In flats where the ceiling is otherwise left flat, the solution is often a local bulkhead or a shallow peripheral drop that carries the rail — a 100–150 mm drop along one or two sides of the room is common and still keeps a clear height of 2600–2700 mm in the centre, consistent with the ceiling-height guidance used elsewhere on this blog.
| Installation type | Ceiling cavity needed | Look | Site difficulty | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Surface mounted | None — fixed to slab or ceiling | Rail visible, 45–55 mm projection | Low | Renovations, rentals, exposed concrete ceilings |
| Suspended | None — hangs on wires | Floating line; wires visible | Low–medium | Double-height rooms, shops, open offices |
| Recessed with flange | About 60–80 mm minimum | Slot with a thin visible frame | Medium | Most new false ceilings in flats and villas |
| Trimless / plaster-in | About 60–80 mm minimum | Seamless slot, no frame | High — needs skilled plastering | Premium homes, hotels, minimalist interiors |
| Wall-to-ceiling bent profile | Recess in both wall and ceiling | Continuous line turning down a wall | High | Feature corridors, statement walls |
The modules: spots, linear lights, wall washers and pendants
What makes a magnetic system so useful is the range of modules that can share one rail. A single straight line in a living room can carry a pair of narrow spots for the artwork, a diffused linear module for general light over the seating, a grille module for glare-free light in a reading corner, and a pendant drop over a side table. Mains track offers fewer types but each head is usually more powerful. The table lists the common module types with the wattages and beam angles typically offered; exact values vary by manufacturer.
| Module | Typical wattage | Beam / distribution | What it does | Where to use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fixed or tilting spot | 5–15 W | 15°, 24°, 36° (some 10° and 60°) | Accent light on an object or surface | Artwork, display niches, plants, textured walls |
| Foldable or adjustable linear spot (multi-head) | 6–24 W | 24°–36° per head | Several small spots in one body | Kitchen counters, retail shelves, long consoles |
| Linear diffused (opal) | 6–24 W per 300–600 mm | Wide, about 110–120° | Soft general light along the rail | Living rooms, corridors, bedrooms |
| Linear grille / louvre | 6–24 W per 300–600 mm | Medium, glare-controlled | General light without seeing the LEDs | Offices, study areas, TV rooms |
| Wall washer | 10–24 W | Asymmetric | Even wash of light down a wall | Feature walls, wardrobe fronts, shop walls |
| Pendant drop | 3–12 W | Narrow to wide | Low-hung decorative or task light | Bedside, side tables, reception counters |
| Mains track spot (230 V) | 10–35 W | 15°–60° | Higher output accent and display | Shops, galleries, high ceilings above 3300 mm |
Two further specifications should always be read on the module datasheet. The first is colour rendering index (CRI or Ra): 80 is the common minimum for homes, but 90 or above makes skin, food, wood and fabric look true and is strongly recommended for living rooms, dining areas, clothing stores and anywhere art is displayed. The second is colour temperature: 2700–3000 K for living rooms and bedrooms, 3000–4000 K for kitchens and offices, and consistency across modules — two spots on the same rail at visibly different whites is a common failure in low-cost systems. Glare control matters too: a deep-set LED behind a honeycomb louvre or a black baffle is far more comfortable than an LED flush with the module face.
Where to put the rail: distance from the wall and aiming angle
Most of the success of a track layout is decided by one dimension: how far the rail sits from the wall or object it lights. Lighting designers commonly aim accent lights at about 30° from vertical. At this angle the beam reaches a painting without throwing a long shadow of the frame, reflections from glass bounce down towards the floor rather than into the viewer's eyes, and a person standing in front of the wall does not cast a shadow over what they are looking at. The rail position follows from simple geometry: distance from the wall equals the height from the target to the ceiling multiplied by tan 30°, which is about 0.58.
| Finished ceiling height | Height above a 1500 mm target | Rail offset for 30° aim | Practical range used |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2400 mm | 900 mm | ≈ 520 mm | 450–600 mm |
| 2600 mm | 1100 mm | ≈ 640 mm | 550–700 mm |
| 2700 mm | 1200 mm | ≈ 700 mm | 600–800 mm |
| 3000 mm | 1500 mm | ≈ 870 mm | 750–950 mm |
| 3300 mm | 1800 mm | ≈ 1040 mm | 900–1100 mm |
| 3600 mm (shop, double height) | 2100 mm | ≈ 1210 mm | 1050–1300 mm |
Choosing the beam angle
Once the rail position is fixed, the beam angle decides the size of the pool of light. The diameter of a beam on a surface is roughly twice the throw distance multiplied by the tangent of half the beam angle. With the 2700 mm ceiling and 700 mm offset in Fig. 3, the slant distance from the rail to the centre of the painting is about 1400 mm. A 15° spot makes a pool of roughly 370 mm, a 24° spot about 590 mm, a 36° spot about 900 mm and a 60° flood about 1600 mm. So a 600 × 900 mm painting wants a 24° or 36° beam; a small sculpture or a single framed photograph wants 15°; a full textured wall wants several 36°–60° modules or a dedicated wall washer. Choosing the beam to suit the object, rather than buying whatever the shop stocks, is what makes track lighting look intentional.
For general light from linear diffused modules, the geometry is gentler: modules are spaced so that their light overlaps on the working plane. On a 2700 mm ceiling, diffused linear modules set about 1200–1800 mm apart, or continuous runs of 600 mm modules with 300–600 mm gaps, usually give an even living-room level in the 100–300 lux band that suits lounging and conversation, with a reading lamp or a grille module adding the higher level needed for reading. In kitchens, the rail should run roughly above the front edge of the counter — about 450–600 mm from the wall for a 600 mm counter — so the cook does not stand in their own shadow.
Room-by-room layouts
A track is a line, and a line in a ceiling is an architectural element as much as a light. It should align with something — a wall, a counter edge, a sofa, the edge of a rug, a beam — and its ends should stop at a deliberate distance from the walls rather than wherever the profile runs out. The plan below shows a typical layout for a living room of about 4200 × 5400 mm, the size found in many 3BHK flats, using one long magnetic line and one short return.
Living room
In the living room the track should do two jobs: light the vertical surfaces that give the room character — the TV wall, an art wall, a bookshelf, a stone cladding — and add soft general light. Keep the rail parallel to the main wall at the offset given by the aiming table, place narrow spots on the art and textured surfaces, and use diffused or grille linear modules for general light. Avoid lighting the television screen itself; aim spots either side of it or onto the panelling above. A separate circuit for the spots, ideally dimmable, lets the room shift from bright cleaning light to a warm evening scene.
Kitchen and dining
In a kitchen, a magnetic rail above the counter edge carrying multi-head linear spots gives strong, shadow-free task light, and works well with under-cabinet strips. Use 3000–4000 K and CRI 90 so vegetables and spices look as they should. Over the dining table, a short rail with two or three pendant drops is a flexible alternative to a fixed chandelier: the pendants can be slid to suit a four-seater today and a six-seater later. Keep pendant bottoms about 700–860 mm above the table surface, the commonly cited range used elsewhere on this blog.
Bedroom, corridor and wardrobe
Bedrooms need restraint. A single rail along the wardrobe wall, 450–600 mm out, lighting the wardrobe fronts, plus pendant drops at the bedside, is often enough; avoid placing spots where a person lying in bed would look into them. In corridors, a continuous diffused linear line down the centre gives a calm, hotel-like effect, while a rail along one side with spots aimed at a gallery of photographs turns a dead corridor into a feature.
Shops, showrooms and offices
In retail, the rail usually follows the display perimeter at the offset for the ceiling height, with a second line over central tables. Mains track with three circuits remains common because staff need to move, add and re-aim heads often and output needs are higher. In offices, magnetic grille modules over desks give glare-controlled light — the desk target of about 500 lux commonly taken from IS 3646-1 needs to be checked with a lighting calculation rather than guessed — while spots pick out the reception wall and the brand logo.
Drivers, cables, dimming and switching
Every magnetic system depends on its driver, and the driver is where budget systems cut corners. The rule is simple: add the wattage of every module that will ever be on that rail, add room for future additions, and choose a driver whose rated output is comfortably above the total — many manufacturers recommend loading a driver to no more than about 80 per cent of its rating, which also helps it run cooler and last longer. Long runs need attention too. At 48 V the current is higher than at mains voltage for the same wattage, so long profiles lose some voltage along their length; manufacturers publish maximum lengths or loads per feed point, and long rails are often fed from the centre or from both ends so the far modules do not dim.
| Example rail (living room, Fig. 4) | Quantity | Watts each | Total |
|---|---|---|---|
| 24° spot modules | 4 | 7 W | 28 W |
| Linear diffused modules, 600 mm | 4 | 12 W | 48 W |
| Pendant drop (future, over side table) | 1 | 6 W | 6 W |
| Allowance for future modules | — | — | 20 W |
| Total connected load | — | — | 102 W |
| Driver chosen (load ≈ 70 % of rating) | 1 | 150 W rating | 48 V DC |
The driver must sit somewhere it can be reached and can breathe: above an access panel in the false ceiling, in a utility loft, or in a ventilated service void. A driver sealed above a gypsum ceiling, wrapped in insulation or pressed against a hot AC duct will fail early, and replacing it means cutting the ceiling. Wiring between the distribution board and the driver is ordinary 230 V fixed wiring and should follow IS 732 and NBC 2016 Part 8 practice — proper conduit, correct cable size, earthing, and a dedicated MCB where the load justifies it. The 48 V cable between driver and rail should be as short as practical and sized to the manufacturer's table.
Dimming and control
Dimming must be decided before the driver is bought, because the driver determines it. Common options are phase-cut (leading or trailing edge) drivers that work with compatible wall dimmers, 0–10 V or 1–10 V drivers controlled by a separate low-voltage signal, DALI drivers for addressable commercial systems, and wireless drivers controlled by an app or by Bluetooth-mesh or Zigbee hubs. Some magnetic systems let each module be addressed individually, so one rail can carry several scenes. For a home, two or three switched or dimmed groups — spots, linear modules, and any decorative pendants — are usually enough. Mains-voltage track heads can be dimmed only if their built-in drivers are dimmable, and all heads on one circuit must use a compatible dimming method.
Costs: what track and magnetic systems really cost in 2026
A track system is priced by its parts, so the quotation should list profile length, connectors, each module, the driver and labour separately. A single rate per running foot that hides the module count is impossible to compare. The figures below are indicative October 2026 ranges for decent mid-market systems in Indian metro and tier-2 cities, excluding GST and the false ceiling itself; premium European brands can cost two to four times more. For comparison, the recessed spot and panel lights used elsewhere on this blog are taken at ₹400–1,200 per piece — a track module costs more because it carries the rail interface, an adjustable body and, in mains heads, its own driver.
| Item | Indicative cost (₹, Oct 2026) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 230 V single-circuit track rail | ₹400–1,200 per running metre | Three-circuit rail costs more |
| 230 V LED track spot head | ₹800–3,500 per head | Higher for CRI 90+, deep anti-glare optics |
| Magnetic profile (recessed or surface) | ₹1,000–3,000 per running metre | Including end caps; connectors extra |
| Magnetic spot module | ₹1,200–4,000 per module | Price rises with CRI, optics and finish |
| Magnetic linear module (300–600 mm) | ₹1,500–4,500 per module | Grille and wall-washer modules at the upper end |
| Driver, 100–200 W, 48 V DC | ₹1,500–6,000 | Dimmable and wireless drivers at the upper end |
| Installation labour | ₹150–400 per running metre | Plus slot framing in the false ceiling |
| Typical living room (6 m rail, 4 spots, 4 linear, 2 drivers) | ≈ ₹21,000–66,000 | Excluding the false ceiling |
The living-room figure in the last row adds up as follows: six metres of profile at ₹1,000–3,000 per metre is ₹6,000–18,000; four spots at ₹1,200–4,000 is ₹4,800–16,000; four linear modules at ₹1,500–4,500 is ₹6,000–18,000; two drivers at ₹1,500–6,000 is ₹3,000–12,000; and labour at ₹150–400 per metre is about ₹900–2,400. That is a real line item — comparable to a designer pendant or two — and it belongs in the lighting section of the quotation from the first estimate, not added after the ceiling is framed.
Quality checks before buying
Because magnetic systems look alike in photographs, the way to judge one is to ask for the datasheet and a physical sample, and to test a few modules on a powered rail. Check that light from several modules of the same type matches in colour; that the light does not flicker when filmed with a phone camera in slow motion; that the magnets hold firmly and the contacts do not spark or crackle when a module is slid; that the profile is straight and its joints line up without a step; and that the warranty covers both modules and driver. Ask whether the luminaires comply with the relevant Indian standards for LED luminaires and safety (the IS 10322 family for luminaires and the IS 16102 family for LED lamps are the usual references), and whether spare modules will be available in three years' time, because a rail is only as useful as the modules that fit it.
| Check | Good result | Warning sign |
|---|---|---|
| Colour rendering (CRI / Ra) | ≥ 90 for living, dining, retail, art | Only "high brightness" quoted, no CRI |
| Colour consistency | All modules match side by side | Visible pink or green tint between modules |
| Flicker | No banding in slow-motion phone video | Strong bands or visible shimmer |
| Glare control | LED set back behind lens, baffle or louvre | Bare LED chip at the module face |
| Mechanical fit | Magnets hold firmly; joints flush | Modules slip; steps at connectors |
| Driver | Named rating, dimming type, warranty | Unbranded driver with no datasheet |
| Spares | Modules available as a catalogue range | One-off import with no supply chain |
Where track and magnetic lighting is going
The direction of travel is towards rails that are as much an infrastructure as a light. Tunable-white modules that shift from cool morning light to warm evening light on one rail are already common in commercial projects and arriving in homes. Wireless control means a module can be grouped, dimmed or scheduled from a phone without new wiring, and addressable rails let one profile serve several scenes. Some manufacturers offer sensors, speakers and small projectors that clip onto the same rail, which turns the ceiling line into a flexible services spine. The design principle will stay the same: the rail must be placed where it can light the walls and objects that matter, aimed so it does not glare, and powered by a driver that is sized, accessible and serviceable.
Rules for specifying track and magnetic lights
- Decide between 230 V track and 48 V magnetic at the concept stage; the false-ceiling drawing depends on it.
- Set the rail offset from the wall using height above target × 0.58 for a 30° aim — about 600–800 mm on a 2700 mm ceiling.
- Choose beam angles from the object size: 15° for small objects, 24°–36° for paintings and niches, 60° or wall washers for full walls.
- Plan a ceiling cavity of at least 60–80 mm at recessed or trimless rails and frame the slot in GI channel on both sides.
- Size the driver at no more than about 80 per cent load, place it behind an access panel, and feed long runs from the centre or both ends.
- Specify CRI 90 or above, matching colour temperature across modules, and glare-controlled optics.
- Never run a rail directly above a sofa or bed where people look up into the modules.
- Keep rails, modules and connectors from one system family, and confirm spare availability before buying.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between track light and magnetic light?
A track light runs at 230 V and each head contains its own driver, so the heads are larger and attach with a twist-lock adapter. A magnetic light runs at 48 V DC from one central driver, so its modules are much smaller and are held on the rail by magnets. Magnetic systems offer more module types, including linear and grille lights; mains track offers higher output for shops and high ceilings.
Are magnetic track lights good for homes?
Yes, when they are planned properly. They give a clean, minimal ceiling and flexible lighting that can be changed later. They need a ceiling cavity of about 60–80 mm for recessed versions, an accessible driver, and careful placement away from seating so they do not cause glare. Bought cheaply and fitted carelessly, they flicker, mismatch in colour and glare.
How far should a track light be from the wall?
For a 30° aim at a target about 1500 mm above the floor, the rail should be about 0.58 times the height from the target to the ceiling away from the wall. On a 2700 mm ceiling that is roughly 700 mm, with 600–800 mm as the practical range; on a 3000 mm ceiling, about 870 mm.
Can magnetic track lights be installed without a false ceiling?
Yes. Surface-mounted profiles screw directly onto the slab, and suspended profiles hang on wires. The power cable must still reach the driver and the rail neatly — in a surface conduit or a chase in the slab plaster — and the driver needs a ventilated, accessible location such as a loft or cabinet.
How many watts of track lighting does a living room need?
For a living room of about 20–25 m², a magnetic system of roughly 80–150 W of LED modules — a mix of spots for accents and linear modules for general light — usually gives a comfortable lounge level when combined with a cove or lamps. The right figure depends on ceiling colour, wall finishes and module efficiency, so a lighting calculation is better than a rule of thumb for large or dark rooms.
Sources & standards
- Bureau of Indian Standards — IS 3646 (Part 1): Code of practice for interior illumination
- National Building Code of India 2016, Part 8 (Building Services), Section 1: Lighting and natural ventilation; Section 2: Electrical and allied installations
- Bureau of Indian Standards — IS 732: Code of practice for electrical wiring installations
- Bureau of Indian Standards — IS 10322 series (luminaires) and IS 16102 series (self-ballasted LED lamps for general lighting services)
- Society of Light and Lighting (CIBSE) — SLL Code for Lighting and lighting guides on display and museum lighting
- Bureau of Energy Efficiency — Energy Conservation Building Code (ECBC) 2017, lighting power density provisions
- Manufacturer standard ranges for 230 V track and 48 V magnetic systems — profile sizes, module wattages and beam angles described generically
- Price ranges: indicative October 2026 estimates — confirm locally before budgeting
